Last Updated on May 26, 2025
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Is visiting Puglia without a car possible? Most people and many guidebooks will tell you, that you absolutely need a car to explore this southern region of Italy. Sure, getting around Puglia by car is much easier, gives you more flexibility and access to many more towns, especially inland. But if for some reason you can’t or don’t want to rent one, you can still see a lot. I know it because I’ve done it myself. And I put together this 10-days in Puglia itinerary to show you how.
After going back and forth whether to rent a car in Puglia or try to explore it by public transportation, I decided on the latter. I didn’t want to deal with driving in Italy, parking (many towns have ZLT – limited traffic zone) and also wanted to experiment and see for myself whether seeing Puglia without a car is possible. Turned out exploring Puglia car free is not only doable, but also much easier than I expected.
While Puglia’s public transpiration might not be as developed as it in Northern Italy, it does exist, and you can still see a lot of it without a car. But you need to be realistic about how much you can cover in 10 days by using trains and buses. The more popular cities and towns are well connected by regional train, so seeing Bari, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare or Lecce will be a breeze. The more inland you want to go, the harder it gets.
So, if you want to visit Puglia, but renting a car and driving is out of the question and you are looking for tips on how to explore Puglia by public transportation, this post is for you.
Where is Puglia
Puglia, also known as Apulia, is a region in Southern Italy. If you look at the map of Italy, it’s shaped like a boot. Puglia is the heel of the boot. It’s a big region with one of the biggest coastlines in Italy (800 km).
This itinerary focuses on the eastern side of Puglia, that is home to some of the most popular places in the region. If you’ve never been to Puglia before, it will give you a good overview of that part of Italy.
Is Puglia worth visiting?
Short answer, yes, Puglia is absolutely worth visiting. It might not be as popular as other Italian destinations, but Puglia has a lot to offer.
From a long coastline with beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters, charming small towns to unique architecture, natural beauty and delicious local cuisine, Puglia has a lot to offer to visitors. It’s also one of the biggest wine producers in Italy.
Puglia is an excellent value for money, as it’s noticeably cheaper than other more popular places in Italy like Venice, Amalfi Coast or Tuscany. It’s also less crowded than those and many other places in Italy, especially up North.
How to get to Puglia
There are two main airports in Puglia: Karol Wojtyla Airport in Bari (BRI) and Salento International Airport in Brindisi (BDS). They are about 1.5-hour drive apart and both have many connections to other European cities.
For this Puglia itinerary, that starts and ends in Bari, Bari Airport is the obvious choice. The airport is located 12 km outside of the city, which you can reach via bus, taxi or a train.
If you are already in Italy, you can also get to Puglia by train from other regions. Bari is a main transportation hub and has a big Bari Centrale train station. There are direct high-speed trains arriving in Bari from many major Italian cities like Rome, Venice, Milan or Bologna.
How to get around Puglia without a car?
Trains
Trains will be your main means of transportation while exploring Puglia. Some trains in Puglia are run by Trenitalia, the main train operator in Italy, others by the regional services: Ferrovie del Sud, Ferrovie del Nord Barese/Ferrotramviaria and Ferrovie Appulo Lucane.
With the train you’ll be able to reach some of the most popular towns in the region. In fact, except for one town (Alberobello), most of this Puglia itinerary was done by train. They run frequently but can be pretty slow.
I recommend downloading the Trenitalia app to check train schedules and buy tickets (although prebooking the regional trains in Italy is not necessary). The regional companies are separate from Trenitalia, which is why you won’t find them on the Trenitalia website or App when searching for schedules.
Another thing to keep in mind when taking trains in Puglia is that train stations in most towns are outside of the center, sometimes way out. Be prepared for a little walk or to grab a taxi. If you follow this particular Puglia itinerary, you are looking at anywhere from 10 – 20 minutes depending on the town. If you decide to go to Ostuni, that one is a great example of a train station being far from the town center.
Tickets can be bought at the train station, either at a ticket window or automated machine, or online/on the app. Paper tickets MUST be validated before boarding the train. Look for a little machine, either on the platform or inside of the train. If you don’t validate your ticket and they come around to check it (which almost always happens), you are risking a fine.
The only exception is if you buy your ticket online. Those do not need to be validated, just show your phone to the controller, when he comes by.
Buses
Another way of getting around Puglia is by bus. Buses go places where trains don’t reach, mostly to inland towns. But buses are a bit trickier to figure out, as the information and schedules are not always easy to find.
Buses don’t run as frequently as trains, sometimes just 2-3 times a day. Bus service is also very limited on the weekends and in low season. Traveling on a Sunday is especially challenging. For example, if you wanted to follow this Puglia itinerary and go from Monopoli to Alberobello, that bus doesn’t run on Sundays. My advice would be to plan bus journeys on a weekday.
Group Tours
If you don’t want to neither drive in Puglia nor deal with the public transportation, you can also see a lot of places by booking a group tour. It’s not my preferred way of exploring, but it’s an option.
There are many tours leaving from either Bari or Monopoli, that visit some of the most popular towns nearby. Below are some of the most popular and high rated tours to check out:
- From Bari – Itria Valley: Polignano a Mare, Ostuni and Locorotondo
- From Bari – Tour of Alberobello and Matera
- Bari: Tour Polignano Alberobello Matera (Private or Shared)
- From Bari & Polignano: Alberobello and Matera Full-Day Trip
Private transfers
This will be extremely convenient but of course will cost a lot more. Although when you are traveling in a big group and split the cost, it might be worth looking into.
10 days in Puglia, Italy
This Puglia itinerary is for first time visitors and covers some of the most popular places in the region. You’ll see some of Puglia’s cities as well as a couple of small towns. Puglia is big and it’s impossible to see everything in 10 days, especially using public transportation to get around. As a base you want to stay somewhere with easy connections and in this case it’s 3 places: Bari, Monopoli and Matera (in Basilicata).
You could probably squeeze in a couple more towns in those 10 days, but I like to have some downtime as well. If you prefer to see more, you’ll see some add on options within the itinerary.
Bari – often overlooked, Puglia’s Capital, is located right on the sea and has a beautiful Historic Center, Bari Vecchio.
Monopoli – a charming coastal town and an old fishing village, with a pretty Historic Center and close to many beaches.
Polignano a Mare – a coastal town, one of the most well known in Puglia, with whitewashed buildings sitting up on limestone cliffs and clear turquoise water.
Alberobello – the famous Trulli town and easily one of the most popular and visited places in Puglia.
Trani – a small town north of Bari, that is still kind of a hidden gem of this list. Not as popular with visitors as other towns, but equally beautiful. One of the highlights is the seaside Cathedral.
Matera – the ancient city Matera, known as the Cave City, is located very close to Puglia and is one of the most unique places in Italy.
While Matera is technically not in Puglia, but in Basilicata, it’s just over the border and close to Bari, so most people visit it as part of a Puglia trip. And for a very good reason. The city is stunning and one of the most beautiful ones you will see in Italy.
If you did the same itinerary by car, you could definitely do it in less than 10 days. But traveling through Puglia by public transportation is going to take more time. You have to account for the extra time it takes to get to train/bus stations, wait time and the fact that buses and especially regional trains will be slower than driving.
10 days in Puglia itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive in Bari
The easiest and cheapest way is to take the direct train right from the airport to Bari’s center. It’s a private railway Ferrotramviaria, that goes from Bari Airport to Bari Nord train station, which is just steps away from the main Bari Centrale.
As you come of the Arrivals Terminal, take a left and you’ll see signs pointing to Ferrovia Station. You can buy your ticket at the ticket counter or the automated machine (€ 5,30 one way), then follow the tunnel to the platform. It takes 17 minutes to reach the center, and once there, it’s about a 20-minute walk from the station to the Old Town of Bari (Bari Vecchio).
You’ll likely land in Bari sometime in the afternoon, so by the time you get to the Old Town, your accommodations should be ready for you to check in. After settling in, you’ll probably be able to fit a couple of activities that day.
I headed straight for Castello Normanno- Svevo, since it’s closed on Mondays (which was my only full day in Bari). Built in the 12th century, the Castle is one of the biggest landmarks in Bari and good for a quick visit while exploring the city.
Another fun way to spend your afternoon in Bari is to take a Walking Food Tour. There are a lot of great local specialties, so this is perfect introduction to food in Puglia, and a little history lesson along the way. try After 3 hours of food tastings, you probably won’t have to worry about dinner.
In the late afternoon head towards the water and take a stroll along Lungomare, the seaside promenade. It’s a great place for a walk along at any time of the day, but it’s especially nice in the late afternoon and during sunset.
A few places in Bari that are good for dinner are: Ristorante Anto, La Cantino della Zio and PerBacco.
If you need a late-night snack, you can head over to Venezia 40 and try their Panzerotti, one of the most popular street foods in Puglia. It’s like a small version of calzone, which comes with all kinds of fillings. At Venezia 40, their known for their Panzerotti and have a huge variety to choose from. It’s a small casual place right on the City Walls facing the water and it’s open every day from 7-11 pm.
For a more detailed guide to Bari check out Top Things to do in Bari, Italy – A Quick Guide to Puglia’s Capital
Where to stay in Bari
When choosing your Bari accommodations, you want to stay in the Old Town, where most of the attractions are. Bari Vecchio is also the most charming part of the city. Most places to stay in Bari are apartments and B&B’s, that are old historic buildings with no elevator. So, keep that mind when booking something on a higher floor.
Here’s my hotel recommendations for your stay in Bari, Italy:
- B&B Murex – beautiful place near the Castle with breakfast included, which is served on the rooftop terrace.
- Casa di Zia Puppeta – located on the quiet street but steps away from all the main Bari attractions. The apartment has a small, well-equipped kitchen.
- Suite Torre Arcobasso – stylish apartment overlooking Arco Basso, the famous street with Pasta ladies.
Day 2 – Bari
Spending two nights in Bari means you’ll get a full day in the city to explore, which is long enough to hit up the top Bari attractions. The Old Town is very compact and everything you’d want to see is withing a walking distance.
After breakfast, make your way towards Arco Basso, also known as Strada delle Orecchiette. That’s where you will find local women making the traditional pasta from Bari called orecchiette. Hence the name of the street. Every morning, they set up tables outside of their homes and spend a good chunk of the day rolling the ear shaped pasta.
There are a couple churches to visit in Bari’s Old Town. The first is Basilica di San Nicola, which is dedicated to Saint Nicholas (aka Santa Claus) and it’s where his remains are. You can visit it for free.
The other church worth visiting is Bari’s Cathedral, especially the crypt below. This one has an entrance fee of €7, which gives you access to both the church and the crypt.
When you get hungry and are ready for a little break, Panifico Santa Rita is a stop you can’t miss. They have the best Focaccia Barese, which is something you must try while in Bari. Get the Focaccia Tradizionale, which is topped with olives and tomatoes, and thank me later. They are open every except for Sunday, from 8:50 am – 2pm and 6.15 pm – 9:15 pm.
There are a couple of historic theatres in Bari worth checking out. Teatro Petruzzelli, built in 1903 is one of the biggest theatres in Italy. If you want to see more of it than just the exterior, you can take the 30-minute tour of the Lobby and the Auditorium for just €5. Check the tour schedule for the dates you are visiting Bari here.
Teatro Margherita is the other theatre, which after being closed for many years, is used now as a museum and for various art exhibitions. The building sits right by the water and is worth seeing even if you don’t care for the museum.
Spend the rest of the day just wandering the alleyways of the Old Town, which I think is very charming and way underrated.
Spending a couple of nights in Bari also means you get to see the city at night. Head to Piazza Mercantile, which is one of Bari’s squares and enjoy a nice glass of wine or a Spritz.
Bari’s Old Town is easy to explore on your own, but you might enjoy this 2 Hour Walking Tour of Bari, which covers a lot of the main attractions mentioned above.
Day 3 – Train to Matera
Your next destination for a couple of days is one of the most unique cities in Italy: Matera. Even though it’s technically not in Puglia, it’s close enough, that including it as one of the stops during a Puglia trip makes perfect sense.
What makes Matera such a special place is, that it’s a city completely carved from stone. The cave dwellings you’ll see there used to be people’s homes, where they lived with no electricity or running water, in less than perfect conditions. Eventually Matera underwent an amazing transformation and went from being the Shame of Italy to a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
For a more complete guide to Matera check out 17 Amazing Things to do in Matera, Italy – The City of Caves.
A lot of people visit Matera as a day trip and while you can definitely see the Historic Center in a day, spending a couple of days in the city is much better. One of the reasons is to see Matera at night. If you think it’s stunning during the day, wait till you see it all lit up.
Best way to get to Matera from Bari is by taking the train. Trains from Bari to Matera are operated by Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (not Trentitalia) and don’t leave from Bari Centrale, but a small station close by. As you are facing Bari Centrale, look for a building to your right with a sign Ferrovie Nord Barese at the top. That’s where you can purchase your tickets, but to access Platform 1 from which Bari to Matera train leaves from, you need to walk into the reddish building next to it. Walk all the way down the hallway and take the stairs up at the end.
One way ticket costs €6 and there’s no need to purchase it in advance. The train is a bit slow, typical for regional trains in Italy, and it takes about 2 hours to get from Bari to Matera. More often than not, you’ll need to switch trains in Altamura, but it’s less complicated than it sounds. The connecting train usually waits at the next platform and lots of people will be going all the way to Matera, so just follow the crowd. Once you get there, it’s about a 10-minute walk from the train station to the Sassi area.
NOTE: Trains from Bari to Matera don’t run on Sundays, so plan accordingly.
You could also take a bus from Bari to Matera, which is direct, but once you get to Matera, the bus drops you off way outside of the city center. The train station is much closer, that’s why I recommend the train over bus, even with the switch in Altamura.
Once you are settled in and are ready to explore, just head out, start walking around and get your first look at the beauty of Matera. You don’t really need a set itinerary for that afternoon, just wander around, take random streets and see what you can find. Surely you will stumble upon one of the viewpoints and enjoy the beautiful views.
If you get hungry and happen to be near Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli (of the viewpoints in Matera), I recommend stopping at La Latteria. This former grocery store turned restaurant is around the corner from the viewpoint I mentioned, but on the side street, so kind of off the beaten tourist path. Great food and excellent selection of local wines. It’s also a great place to get your first taste of Matera bread, which is one of the things the city is known for.
Where to stay in Matera
When choosing Matera accommodations, I highly recommend staying in one of the cave hotels. It’s such a unique experience, one you can only have in few places in the world. There are many to choose from for various budgets.
Here are some of the best cave hotels in Matera:
- L’Infinito dei Sassi – this guesthouse is a great value for money and where I spent 2 nights. spotless, great location, beautiful views of the Sassi from the terrace and breakfast included.
- Palazzo Degli Abati – located right above San Pietro Barisano church, this hotel offers both cave rooms and regular rooms and they all have a private terrace. One of the highlights is the on-site bistro Crialoss, with some of the best views of Matera.
- Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita – one of the best and most unique hotels in Matera, in an unbeatable location, with amazing views over the Valley. Breakfast included.
Day 4 – Matera
One of the best things to do in Matera is to walk around the two Sassi neighborhoods: Sasso Baresano and Sasso Caveoso. Walk up and down the hilly streets, take random alleys and get lost. The city is like a living museum and best explored by wandering around.
You can walk around on your own, or join a walking tour of Sassi, which I recommend, if you are not too familiar with Matera’s history. And it’s a fascinating one and knowing it will enhance your visit.
There are many beautiful churches in Matera (over 150), especially those carved into a rock, so call Rupestrian churches. They are very unique to the city so be sure to visit one or two. Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris is one of the more popular ones and it’s right next to a great viewpoint, so I highly recommend stopping there.
Right below is Chiesa di San Pierto Caveoso, not a Rock church, but a beautiful one as well (and free to visit), so you can make another stop there too.
For a glimpse into what life looked like in Matera back in the day, visit one of the Cave House Museums. I really enjoyed Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, which thanks to its central location is one of the most popular ones. It costs €5 to get in and you get a QR code to access an audio guide on your phone.
When you are ready to give your legs a break, you can stop at one of the bars with a view for a cup of coffee or glass of wine. Crialoss has one of the best views of Matera and you can find it in this exact spot.
In the afternoon head over to Piazza Vittorio Venetto, the main square in Matera. Great people watching whether you want to sit down at one of the cafes or just walk around. It’s also where you will find Tre Archi, one of the viewpoints in Matera.
Since you’re already in Piazza Vittorio Venetto, why not pop into Palombaro Lungo. It’s a huge water cistern and a great example of how people collected spring water back in the day. You can visit it for a small fee (€3), walk the elevated platform and take a closer look. There is a small fee (€3) to get in and you won’t need more than 15 minutes to visit.
For dinner some of the good restaurants are: Osteria Matera, Mi Le Bacantti (fancy)
Day 5 – Transfer to Monopoli
On your second and last morning in Matera, you can go to Tripoli in Piazza Vittorio Venetto for a good cup of coffee. If you need a snack for the road, grab a Focaccia from Panifico Paoluccio, right around the corner.
You can either start making your way towards Monopoli in the morning or hang out in Matera for a couple of hours. If you are not in a rush and are up for some excercise, you can spend your morning hiking to Murgia Materana Park (Parco della Murgina Materana). This is the park you see on the other side of the canyon.
There is a trail that goes from Porta Pistola and takes you to the other side via the suspension bridge (Ponte Tibetano della Gravina). You’ll go past more cave dwellings and rupestrian churches, as well as some amazing scenery. One of the highlights of the park is Belvedere di Murgia Timone, one of the best viewpoints in Matera.
Whether it’s in the morning or later in the day, it’s time to start heading towards your next stop for a few days: Monopoli. This laid-back coastal town, besides having its share of things to do, is also an excellent base for exploring the area. There are several great towns just a short train or bus ride away. Which is way Monopoli will be a longer stop on this Puglia itinerary.
Getting from Matera to Monopoli requires two train rides. First you take a train from Matera to Bari (remember, this train arrives in Bari Nord station), then walk over to Bari Centrale and take another train from Bari to Monopoli. Once you arrive in Monopoli, it’s about a 20-minute walk from the train station to the Old Town.
Once you settle into your accommodations, you can spend the afternoon strolling through the Old Town, getting familiar with what will be your surroundings for the next few days. Monopoli is a nice size town, not too big, but also not too small. What I mostly loved about it was that’s it’s a perfect place to just relax, enjoy the atmosphere and have that laid back coastal town in Italy experience. Without a long list of things to do and see.
Monopoli, like most coastal towns, has a beautiful seaside promenade (Lungomare), that runs along the old city walls, water and beaches if you go far enough away from the Old Town. You’ll always see locals walking or running there. If you are an early riser, anywhere along the promenade is also a great place to watch the sunrise.
You can’t miss Castello Carlo V, one of Monopoli’s biggest landmarks, although you can skip going inside, unless you are interested in art exhibits.
Where to stay in Monopoli
Again, when choosing accommodations in Monopoli, look for places that are located in the Old Town. This way you will be in the most charming part of Monopoli, in the middle of all the action, with many cafes and restaurants around. And if you need to take a train for your day trips, the train station is about an easy 20-minute walk away.
Similar to Bari, most of the accommodations in Monopoli are apartments and B&B’s rather than big hotels. Here are a couple of great places to stay:
Comes Home – I stayed at this beautiful, bright and spacious apartment and can’t recommend it enough. Location was perfect, right in the heart of the Old Town. There is a great roof top terrace overlooking the Castle and water. But the best part was the owner Angela, who was incredibly welcoming, always making sure I had a great stay.
Hotel Don Ferrante – this 5-star hotel is one of the best places to stay in Monopoli. Beautiful design, great location, sea views, swimming pool and breakfast included.
Day 6 – Monopoli
Spend your day exploring Monopoli’s Old Town (Centro Storico in Italian). It’s full of beautiful alleys with the typical for Puglia whitewashed buildings decorated with colorful flowerboxes. There’s plenty of bars, cafes and little piazzas.
There are many beautiful churches in Monopoli you can visit. The Cathedral (Cathedral Maria Santissima della Madia) is beautiful and free to visit. Right next door you have Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffriago, also known as the Purgatory church. Chiesa di San Salvatore, overlooking the water, is the oldest church in Monopoli, dating back to the 4th century.
While the Old Town of Monopoli is easy to explore on your own, you might enjoy joining a walking tour with a local. This Walking Street Food Tour is a great way to spend a couple of hours visiting the city’s top spots while tasting some of Puglia’s delicious food and wine.
Hands down the most picturesque spot in Monopoli is Porto Antico, a small harbor with blue boats bobbing in the water. Go grab gelato from nearby Bella Blue or a sandwich from Gustavo and go hang out there for a bit.
If you are lucky to snag the only table with the view of Porto Antico at the Tuttoaposto Winebar, that is a great place to have a drink with a view.
Piazza Guiseppe Garibaldi is a lively square and also a fun place to hang out for a bit and people watch. There are several cafes there with outdoor seating, perfect for an aperitivo and a snack.
A couple of restaurants I recommend for dinner are: La Locandadei Mercanti, My Wine and the rooftop restaurant at Don Ferrante (Locanda Don Ferrante)
Day 7 – Alberobello
Without a doubt the most famous place on this Puglia itinerary is Alberobello. The small town in Valle d’Itria is known for its Trulli, the white cottages with conical roofs. They are very unique to the area, you can see them here and there all over the Valley, but Alberobello has literally hundreds of them. Which is why it’s so popular and so many people visit each day, especially in high season.
Alberobello is one of the most popular day trips in Puglia and it’s also very easy to visit from Monopoli. There is a bus that goes from Monopoli to Alberobello four times a day, leaving from Piazza San Antonio, which is sort of halfway between the Old Town and the Monopoli train station. Tickets are sold at a small travel agency (Agenzia Viaggi) around the corner at this exact spot. It costs €3,40 each way (€6,80 round trip) and tickets can be used anytime, so I recommend getting a round-trip ticket.
Buses leave from Monopoli at 5.30 am, 11 am, 2.20 pm and 5 pm, with most people doing Alberobello day trip taking the 11 am bus. If you are there in high season (and even shoulder season), be sure to show up about 20-25 minutes early, as the line for the bus is really long. There is no bus service on Sundays, so plan your Alberobello day trip accordingly.
It’s about a 40-minute ride and the bus drops you off on Via Cavour in Alberobello (in this spot). This is also where you are going to catch the bus back, so I recommend taking a picture of the street or saving the above location to your google maps. From there, it’s a 5-minute walk to the Trulli area.
Alberobello is all about Trulli houses and basically the top thing to do there is to walk around and see them. It’s a small town and most people spend 2-3 hours.
There are two main Trulli filled neighborhoods in Alberobello: Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccoli. The first is the more touristy one, where a lot of the houses are now souvenir stores, hotels and cafes. The latter is less commercialized and feels more authentic. Be sure to walk around both.
On the edge of Rione Monti neighborhood is also Church of Saint Anthony of Padua (Parrocchia Sant-Antonio di Padova), the only Trullo church in the world. It’s beautiful and unique, worth going up the hill from the center of town.
Another place worth visiting on your Alberobello day trip is the biggest Trullo in town, Trullo Sovrano, which was turned into a museum you can visit for just €2. It does a good job of showing what it was like living in a Trullo back in the day. Trullo Sovrano is also the biggest Trullo in town.
If you wanted to learn more about the history of Alberobello and Trulli houses, there is a 2-hour Walking Tour you might enjoy.
There are actually a few options how you can visit Alberobello from Monopoli.
- take the morning bus from Monopoli, spend a couple of hours walking around Alberobello and get back on the afternoon bus
- take the first bus from Monopoli to Alberobello, spend 2-3 hours there, then take a bus from Alberobello to Locorotondo, another pretty town nearby.
- go to Alberobello the night before by taking the afternoon bus from Monopoli, spend a night in one of the Trulli houses and spend the following morning exploring the town before the crowds arrive. Afterwards you can either return to Monopoli or continue to Locorotondo.
In my Alberobello guide I have a more detailed list of things to do and recommendations of places to stay.
Day 8 – Polignano a Mare
Today is a day to explore the area and head to Polignano a Mare for the day. I recommend heading out early so you can have a full day of enjoying the town.
It’s a quick 15-minute train ride to get to Polignano a Mare from Monopoli, and once there, about a 10-minute walk to the Old Town.
Polignano a Mare is one of the most popular towns in Puglia, known for limestone cliffs, crystal clear water and Lama Monachile (or Cala Porto), the famous beach between two cliffs. That beach is hands down one of the most popular images of Puglia. Go early if you actually want to spend some time there, as the beach is not big and gets really crowded in the summer. It’s also very rocky, so I recommend bringing water shoes.
As in many other Puglia towns, the Old Town is made up by beautiful alleys, piazzas and cafes. Keep an eye out for poetry written on some walls, doors and staircases. There are several viewpoints in town, with the most famous being Belvedere su Lama Monachile. From the name you can tell this is where you can get the classic view of the famous beach.
Next, walk across the bridge Ponte Borbonico su Lama Monachile , from which you can get a great view of the beach below. If you continue walking you end up at an open square, where you’ll see Domenico Modugno statue. Modungo was the writer and singer of the famous Nel blu, dipinto di blu song, better known as Volare. He was born in town, and the town honored him with a statue in a great location overlooking the sea.
If you go behind the statue, there will be a staircase leading down to a rocky terrace Pietra Piatta, which is the nicest viewpoint in Polignano a Mare, in my opinion. From there you can enjoy some beautiful views of the sea and part of the famous Lama Monachile beach.
Polignano a Mare is also home to the very famous restaurant Grotta Palazzese, which if you go by reviews will probably not be THE BEST food you’ve had in Italy, but the location and setting is incredible. Plan ahead and be sure to make a reservation, if you’d like to have a meal there.
For the early afternoon, I recommend booking a boat tour to explore the beautiful coastline and sea caves. You’ll also get to see Grotta Palazzese from the water. Most tours are about 1.5-2 hours long and include an Aperitif. It’s one of the top things to do in Polignano a Mare and there are many boat tours to choose from. I booked this exact tour and can highly recommend it.
The Marina in Polignano a Mare is located about a 30-minute walk from the Old Town/touristy area. I walked, but you probably want to hop into a taxi, as some of the walk is along a busy street with no sidewalk.
After the boat ride, head back to the Old Town and have dinner at one of the restaurants in the Old Town.
After dinner, before making your way back to the train station, you can pop into The Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella for a cup of their special coffee (caffè speciale). It’s a mix of coffee, sugar, lemon zest, cream, and homemade amaretto and it was invented in that little cafee, that’s been there since 1935.
Then it’s time to walk to train station and head back to Monopoli.
Day 9 – Monopoli beach day or Ostuni day trip
On your last full day in Monopoli, you can do a slow day and enjoy one of the city’s beaches. Heading south along Lungomare you’ll find several beaches and coves. The closest one to Cala Porta Vecchia. Then a bit further down you have Porto Rosso and Porto Bianco.
If you want to head more south (will probably need to hop in a taxi) two of the best Monopoli beaches are Spiaggia di Porto Verde and Spiaggia di Porto Marzano. Going north of Monopoli on the other hand are Cala Monaci and Spiaggia di Cala Corvino
If you prefer to explore more and see another one of Puglia towns, you can also head to Ostuni for the day. It’s another charming town in the area, known for whitewashed buildings, which is also why Ostuni is known as the White City.
You can spend the day wandering around the Old Town, walking the City Walls and enjoying the views. The town sits up on a hill and overlooks the countryside and Adriatic Sea. Piazza della Liberta is the main square and a fun place to stop for coffee or Aperitivo.
You can easily get there from Monopoli by taking the train, which is about a 20-minute journey. The only thing is, that once you get to Ostuni, the train station is 2 km away from the Historic Center. I don’t recommend walking, as it’s not particularly scenic and quite steep.
There is a shuttle service going from the train station up to the Old Town and you can even buy a ticket on the Trenitalia app for Ostuni CITTA (includes the train + the shuttle service). Or you can hop in a taxi.
Day 10 – Back to Bari + half day trip to Trani
My flight out of Bari was late at night, so after checking out of my Monopoli apartment I had several hours to kill. I took a train to Bari, left my luggage at the storage at Bari Centrale and decided to do a half day trip to Trani.
Trani is not very popular with visitors, definitely not as well-known as some of the places on this itinerary. It’s located 48 km north of Bari and easy to get to by train from the main station Bari Centrale. It takes 30-40 min to get there depending on which train you take.
From the Trani train station, head towards the Old Town (about a 10-minute walk)
One of the biggest Trani attractions is without a doubt the beautiful Romanesque Cathedral, that sits right by the water. The Cathedral and the Bell Tower are open every day and are free to visit.
If you have an earlier flight out of Bari and don’t have time to visit Trani on your last day, you can move it to Day 3. Check out of your Bari apartment, leave your luggage at Bari Centrale storage and take a train to Trani for a few hours. After you visit, come back to Bari and take a later train to Matera and arrive there in the afternoon, instead of late morning.
Tips for visiting Puglia without a car
Validate your ticket
One of the main mistakes people make when traveling by train in Italy (or other parts of Europe) is not validating the ticket before getting on the train.
Having grown up in Europe, this is something I’m used to, but if you are visiting i.e. from the US, be sure to remember to validate tickets bought at the train station! Look for small machines on the platform, insert your ticket and it will stamp a date/time on it.
When the conductor comes around to check it which happens VERY often, you will pay a fine if your ticket is not validated. I’d say 1 out of 3 times I’m on the train in Italy, someone gets a fine. And it’s always a tourist, who wasn’t aware this needs to be done. And those fines can get pretty hefty, so don’t make the same mistake!
Pack light
Exploring Puglia without a car means you will be walking to and back from your hotel to bus/train station several times during your trip. Even though they are mostly short walks, you don’t want to be dragging a huge suitcase each time. Pack light and it will be much easier.
Allow extra time
When planning your Puglia itinerary, keep in mind, that while you can reach many places by public transportation, buses and trains will be slower than driving.
Limited service on Sundays
When planning to move around the area, keep in mind, that there might be limited service or no service at all on Sundays. Regional trains are often replaced by buses, and buses like i.e. from Monopoli to Alberobello don’t run on Sundays at all. If you wanted to go from Bari to Matera by train, you can’t do that on Sundays either. If your public transpiration day falls on a Sunday, I’d personally rearrange my Puglia itinerary and stay put that day.
READ MORE:
- Top Things to do in Bari, Italy – A Quick Guide to Puglia’s Capital
- Is Alberobello worth visiting? – A Guide to Puglia’s Trulli Town
- 17 Amazing Things to do in Matera, Italy – The City of Caves
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